Thanks to those of you that left questions for us on the blog! We definitely enjoyed answering them. You’ll find Carmin’s answers to the most recent round of questions below:

Q: Chance asks, “What does impala steak taste like? Is it really lean or is there some fat? Is it similar to venison?”

A: Carmin answers, “Impala steak is firm but tender. Our very kind guide did suggest that we order it medium to rare as it can get tough if over cooked. The meat has a very mild game flavor but nothing quite as strong as venison.”

Q: Amanda asks, “Do you have any books that you or Carmin can recommend so that I can learn more about this amazing place?”

A: Carmin answers, “There are so many fabulous books on South Africa and it all depends on where your interests lie. A good choice for insight into South Africa’s political and cultural past is Nelson Mandela’s Long Walk to Freedom and also Tomorrow is Another Country: The Inside Story of South Africa’s Road to Change by Allister Sparks. For guidebooks, the Insight Guides are great. I like Bradt’s Southern African Wildlife: A Visitor’s Guide and Ian Sinclair Field Guide to the Birds of Southern Africa.”

Q: Sherry asks, “I’m a little surprised about the driver pulling the land rover in front of the lions, forcing them to go around the obstruction. This seems the antithesis of ‘nature’ travel. Why not be satisfied with simply observing the animals in the wild, why inflict yourselves on them when they are hunting???”

A: Carmin says, “Sherry, if the lions were on the hunt, we would definitely not have moved in closer as it is imperative that we as spectators do not change or influence the animals’ behavior. These two male lions were, in fact, just on the move in search of the females and were using the road as the path of least resistance. It is also important to note that these lions are habituated to the safari vehicles and regularly walk right up to them and use the vehicles for shade on a hot day.”

Q: Jan says “That is so interesting about the leopards. It almost sounds like human hunters with the disembowling. How do they shave the fur? How old before they can defend against the hyenas? [...] Who would do battle with a male lion? A female lion? Another male lion?”

A: Carmin answers, “Leopards shave their prey with their teeth. They scrape the skin along their front teeth and then spit out the hair. Hyenas remain a threat to leopards as they constantly try to steal they prey – hyenas are scavengers after all. This is why leopards will hoist their prey into a tree but sometimes it falls out of the tree and the hyenas are waiting to snatch it up. Male lions fight for dominance of a territory but other animals have also been known to put up a fight in certain situations. I have seen rhino chase off lions as well as buffalo, it all depends on the situation and if the animals have strong numbers, they can and often will challenge a lion.”

Q: Georgia asks, “Have you tried a Swinging Safari Amarula Cream Cocktail yet??”

A: Carmin responds, “We did indeed enjoy Amarula on several occasions and we even saw several Marula trees but sadly no fruit at this time of year.”

Suffice it to say the weather was not cooperating yesterday. Cold, light rain kept shifting to mist and back again all morning. We bundled up in rain jackets or ponchos and headed out after coffee. Despite the cold, I felt warm and cozy; the movements and sounds of the land rover crunching over the ground kept putting me to sleep. Soon we made our first sighting of the morning: two huge elephants walking along the road. We drove along side them for a little while and watched them eat and meander. Next we came upon a group of four lionesses – three of which were lying in a group just like kittens. Not far from the lionesses we found the same male lions we’d followed the previous night. They were relaxing and looked so innocent. You could visibly see one’s eyes become little slits and his head bobbing on the verge of sleep. On our way back, we came upon another group of elephants. One of which was very old, probably around fifty, and the other was still young and learning from the older one, sort of like a mentoring situation. The number of folds in the skin and humps on the backs were markedly different between the two.

We came back a little early for breakfast and sat in the main lodge near the fire, which was especially nice after being somewhat chilled from the weather. Carmin and I downloaded and responded to email while we waited for breakfast. The banquet table had been laid out with plates, silverware, and a fruit basket at this point. A vervet monkey dashed into the lodge, hopped onto the banquet table, and snatched a couple of bananas. Carmin and I noticed too late to either chase him off or grab a camera (As I was writing this - no kidding - another monkey came and stole some of the lunch rolls! Wow)! Later one brought over her baby and sat perched atop the branch of a nearby tree, watching us. It was so cute and fascinated me.

After breakfast, Mike was nice enough to give us a great interview describing his job as a guide which should be debuting on the site pretty soon. Everyone went their own way for a few hours and reconvened at lunch. We sat discussing our South African itineraries, pouring over a map and making notes of our thoughts. I have no doubt that these trips will be a great deal of fun and I am already planning to come back with my family and Justin.

It was just about time for high tea when we were done with our meeting and not long before we head out for our final afternoon safari with Mike. It was obvious he and Jerry were on a mission as soon as we climbed into the vehicle. We stopped only once, very briefly, to watch three mongooses cross the road. Being close to the front of the land rover, I was able to see Mike anxiously biting his thumb nail. He stopped the vehicle and both he and Jerry jumped out, discussing droppings they noticed on the ground. Both were very quiet and communicated in the local tribal language (Shangaan) so we were unaware of just what was going on. The anticipation was killing me! Moments later and a brief trip down twisting dirt roads, Mike slowed and shouted “There! There!” all the while pointing and edging the vehicle forward. Then he exclaimed “Buffalo!” That was all we needed to hear. Raucous cheers erupted from inside the land rover. This was it – we had seen all of the Big 5.

As we edged nearer, Mike told us that the group members were female buffalo with their young. He also told us they’re quite dangerous – possibly the most dangerous of the Big 5 because, unlike elephants, they won’t simply trample you. They will absolutely gore you. He told us that he’d been charged by one in Botswana. He and his friend had to fire two shots into her just to bring her to the ground. After an autopsy had been preformed, they found that she was lactating and her baby had died, hence she was in a rage – Mike just so happened to be nearby.

He guessed (accurately) that the males would be nearby and hurriedly drove through brush and trees, bringing us face to face with a group of “bulls.” They are so massive and odd looking to me. We watched them for a while as they moved off into a thicket, peering out at us from their hiding place. Mike drove us back toward the females, which we watched for a while longer.

In jovial, triumphant spirits we left the buffalo to graze. Soon we came upon a female hyena that appeared to be hunting a group of male impala. This is unusual because she is at a disadvantage due to the number of kudu and the fact that they have horns. However, Mike said she appeared very hungry so may be willing to take the risk. The males bounded away and she noticed us. Normally the hyenas we’ve seen have been skittish of the land rover, but not this one. She pranced right up to the side of the vehicle where Dennis was snapping photos of her. She moved her head from side to side before bending to a crouch. I swore she was about to spring into the vehicle. She edged closer to my door and I became quite frightened. Jerry had a spotlight which he shined into her eyes causing her to flee. Yikes!

Further on we spotted a rhino trotting in the grass parallel to the road. He ran ahead of us then turned and began running toward us. I thought this would be the end for sure! As the rhino headed for us, Mike killed the vehicle engine and placed a hand on his rifle. Luckily the rhino changed his mind and turned (on a dime!) to head in a different direction. After he left, Mike told us it was a black rhino. Black rhinos are much more aggressive than white rhinos and can run at speeds up to 40 miles per hour. Jerry, who sits atop a seat bolted to the hood of the vehicle, was surprised and a little scared. He confessed he’d only been calm because he thought it was a white rhino.

We drove onto a hill that rose high above the surrounding area. The air was chill and high wind whipped around us. It was pitch black at this point but far in the distance, many miles away, there was a string of lights pressed onto the horizon. It was the first sign of civilization, of a town, I’d seen in several days. To some this might seem annoying, and I admit it may otherwise have rubbed me the wrong way, but at that moment I felt a sense of happiness, of warmth, hope and gratefulness. I felt a sense of connectedness to both the world and to humanity, to the people in that little village that I’ll never meet and all those beyond it.

Dinner was a special event as it would be our last for the trip and in South Africa. I think all four of us had impala steak for the same reason – who knows when or if we’ll ever have it again? It was delicious as was the dessert.

Today is our final day here. A small, chartered plane will take us from the Sabi Sabi landing strip to Johannesburg International Airport and we’ll go our respective ways - I to New York and the others connecting through DC to their respective homes (Carmin in Seattle, Dan in Billings, and Dennis in St. Louis). This trip has been very special. I hope you’ve all enjoyed the photographs and the blog entries. I definitely encourage everyone to come to South Africa. Carmin has done a fantastic job with the different itineraries (family or adult) so if you make it an Austin-Lehman trip, I have no doubt it will be an experience you will cherish and remember forever. I know I will, and I truly hope someday (in the not too distant future) to come back with my family to this country teaming with beauty, wilderness, and culture.

Sorry for the delay! After breakfast yesterday we went for a bush walk with our guide, Mike. He spotted animal paw prints in the dirt and taught us how to identify the animal from the different shapes of the prints. He also pointed out different plants that are edible (some have berries that can be eaten as they are or dried and eaten or even boiled into tea) to a flowering creeper whose leaves make great shampoo for hair as they are loaded with vitamin E. If I could remember half of what I saw, I think I would have a chance of surviving in the African wilderness! As we tread across the bush he picked up a large snail with a shell which looked so out of place away from the ocean but occurs in this part of world naturally. We came to a gigantic termite mound so we all climbed on top (me, Carmin, Dan, Mike and a guy from New York name Eric who was in our group) for a quick photo. There are so many termite mounds here and many of them, as one may expect, are around trees. I thought the termites built their nests around the trees for nourishment, but the story is quite the opposite. The termite mounds are nutrient and nitrogen rich, so trees actually grow from them and not the other way around!

When we returned from our walk we decided to visit each of the different Sabi Sabi properties for a survey. Little Bush Camp (where we are staying) and Bush Camp were my two favorites because of the rustic, laid back appeal. We had a wonderful lunch at Bush Camp before heading to see the last lodge and returning to ours just before high tea and our afternoon game drive. The lodge we’re staying in reflects the modern African safari style with lovely thatched roofs, spacious bathrooms, and great amenities. My absolute favorite thing about our lodge is the people. They are so cheerful, friendly and humorous. They can make a joke out of almost any situation and truly give the place a fun, comfortable feeling.

On our afternoon drive we headed straight for the Sabi River. It is incredibly wide and bone dry. Mike tells us that it usually gets flowing in March and continues throughout autumn. We saw lots of beautiful impalas and quite a few little babies nestled among the herd, safe from predators. They were so adorable and can jump incredibly high for their size! Hyenas seemed to be on the prowl as we saw two or three – one was even walking along the road with absolutely no regard for the looming vehicle!

As we drove quickly down the road in the darkness Mike hit the brakes. Something large and grey was blocking the road ahead of us. It turned out to be a massive elephant bum belonging to Frank. He’s been known to charge vehicles. Mike managed to shoo him away but as soon as he we drove passed him he let out a great trumpeting cry. I pictured him furiously stampeding us at any moment. Luckily, we were safe and continued onward.

Moments later we encountered the male lions from the morning drive, but this time they were on the prowl and not laying innocently beside the road. We followed them for quite some time. More than once Mike pulled the car in front of them, causing them to walk right passed us. I have to admit, it was a little bit frightening, especially when one would look right up at you as it passed. I huddle closely to Carmin for fear of a giant paw swatting me to my doom. Dan confided to being a little intimidated as well, though he continued to hold one of the cameras out of the vehicle to acquire photos of the beautiful animal as it walked by. We followed the animals into a large field where one laid down. Mike told us it wouldn’t be long before we got to hear what a real roar was like and that the television really didn’t do it justice. He wasn’t kidding! The lion’s roar was loud and deep, vibrating the floor boards beneath our feet. We were quite close to him and I began to worry that our presence was getting on his nerves. Mike informed us that he was merely announcing his presence and claiming his territory. I didn’t want to give him any reason to think we were challenging him so I admit I felt a bit relieved when we all drove away safely.

When we returned to the lodge we were bursting with excitement and browsing through photographs from our lion encounter. We showed both Etienne and Leanna (managers at the lodge) the photographs and video we’d managed to take. We had a nice dinner and went off to bed to prepare for the next morning.

We have settled down at Sabi Sabi Little Bush Camp in Kruger, thus living the safari lifestyle. Since our schedule has changed so has my timing for updating the blog. We are on the hunt for animal sightings by 6 AM with downtime in the middle of the day (i.e. – blog and photo update time) followed by an afternoon safari and then dinner.

I am not a fan of traveling for long periods at a time because I often get motion sick. Yesterday we drove from Madikwe to Johannesburg with a brief stop to look at souvenirs and use the restroom facilities. I also grabbed some more souvenirs (wow, I feel like a broken record). By the time we arrived at our small charter jet terminal, I was not feeling my best. You can imagine how happy I was to discover that hors d’oeuvres, fruit, and drinks were waiting for us as well as a comfortable area to relax and wait for our flight. I have never flown on a plane that small! There were maybe 12 seats and I literally had to bend over at the waist to shuffle down the aisle. I really felt like we were going into the wild at that point! The plane encountered a small bit of turbulence during the flight and fluttered like a moth caught in a wind current but most of the time it was fine and the flight was only an hour long. I decided to take a nap and woke up at the perfect moment – just before we touched down in Sabi Sabi. The four of us (Carmin, Dennis, Dan and myself) were the only passengers to get off at this stop. The plane would be making two or three other stops before heading back to Johannesburg.

We were picked up from the landing strip by our guide for the next few days, Mike. He is such a character! Not only is he funny and enthusiastic (that is an understatement), you can really tell he loves what he is doing. His knowledge regarding plants, insects, reptiles, birds, mammals and stars is close to encyclopedic! I think we all find him absolutely mesmerizing. On the way to the lodge, we saw a hippo mostly submerged in a pond right off the little dirt road. He repeated a pattern of surfacing and sinking beneath the water. Every time he arose, he snorted from his large nostrils and spun his ears like little windmills. He was so cute! I am really glad we got to see a hippo. They’re such neat animals!

We came to our rooms which are quite lovely - large, comfortable, with a nice big bathroom, and AIR CONDITIONING (a rarity in the bush) and then had some quick tea before heading out on safari. What a brilliant experience. The land here is so pretty – green and open one moment and the next there are flowering trees and rocky beds. We drove very near a pack of white rhinos grazing and watched little birds light on the rhinos’ backs and heads and peak in their ears. Mike told us some incredibly interesting facts about the white rhinos, such as they can run up to 45 km/hour, drink 70 liters of water per day and eat 100 kg of grass. They have a 16 month gestation period and their calves suckle for four years!!! I guess we have it pretty good as humans. Despite their weight (a female can be 1.5 tons and a male 2.7 tons) they are very bouncy and light in appearance when they trotted away.

It wasn’t long after we left the rhinos that we came upon a beautiful leopard cub (approximately 1 year old) relaxing beneath a tree. She yawned, stretched, and decided to hunt impalas. We learned that leopards can run up to 90 km per hour and that they shave the fur off their kill, disembowel them, and drag the carcasses into trees to keep them away from other predators. It was amazing to follow the young leopardess on her hunt. She slowly snuck up a small hill and crouched low so as to be obscured by brush before carefully approaching the impalas. She had inched her way closer when, suddenly, a hyena darted out of nowhere! Hyenas prey on young cubs who cannot yet defend themselves. In a flash the leopard was up a tree. The hyena circled the tree for a bit before moving off. It was absolutely surreal to watch the reality of nature in action. As the sun lowered in the sky it cast golden light over the world. At that point, there was no more beautiful vision than the young leopardess balancing effortlessly in the tree, bathed in warm light and peering into the sunset. We watched her for a while longer before heading out for our sundowner. The sunset that evening was the most beautiful I’ve seen in months, painting the sky with pinks, reds, and blues against a soft, cloudy texture sky. It made the perfect backdrop for our sundowner.

On the way back to the lodge, Jerry (the tracker that rode with us, perched on a seat atop the hood of the land rover) spotted an owl in the tree. We were able to watch it swoop from limb to limb until it was too far away to see and too much in the thicket to pursue. Mike spotted a scorpion and hopped out of the vehicle. I swear, in that moment he was just like an excited kid that possessed uncanny knowledge. He described the scorpion to us as he nudged it with the toe of his boot. The scorpion responded with repeated lashes from his tail. Just before we arrived back at the lodge, we made one more stop. There was a chameleon hanging out in a tree, so Mike grabbed her and she crawled all the way to the top of his head. He said they always try to make it to the highest point. Dan, Carmin, and I took turns holding her and letting her climb all the way up our heads. When we arrived at the lodge, it was just about time for dinner. We were served butternut squash soup, kudu steak, and “chocolate pizza” before hitting the hay.

This morning I made it to the main lodge just in time to grab a cup of coffee and a blueberry muffin for the road. Mike almost immediately found two male lions laying around, relaxing. Man they have massive heads! One was scarred from previous battles, though he was only around 4 years old. It was so neat to see their manes and the size of their paws. As we watched them resting tiny droplets of rain began to fall on us. It wasn’t long before we were enveloped in a full scale shower. We made it back to the lodge somewhat dry thanks to the ponchos that Mike had for us. We sat around conversing for a while, waiting for the rain to let up. It is now time for a full breakfast, so I am going to stop here and hurry off to join the others. I’ll write again tomorrow.

Here is a video we made of the lion cubs from Madikwe playing togther.

This entry will be brief as there is a thunder storm still rumbling overheard. I dislike logging things out of order, but this simply has to be mentioned first. We had our first elephant sighting today! It was more than a sighting, really, as the elephant couldn’t have been more than 30 feet from us and we were able to watch him for a while as he ate, urinated (hey – it is reality) and trampled over small trees and brush. What a great animal – both in size and appearance. Watching him was certainly the highlight of my day.

This morning I was once again awakened by coffee in my room. We had a quick breakfast and were out in the saddle again, riding our horses to view the sable antelope which are bred on the property. Helen (one of the property managers) is a specialist on the breeding process and the sable. She accompanied us and explained the endangered status of the animals as well as their behavior. I have to admit, though I was with three guides that are very experienced around these animals, it was still a little frightening to watch the dominant male sable thrash bushes and trees with his horns. He was not afraid of us at all. Often he approached us, threateningly, only abandoning his approach when our horses backed away.

We had brunch after our ride and bid a fond farewell to Ant’s Nest and the wonderful employees. A long, four hour drive and kilometer after kilometer of dirt roads led us to Madikwe Game Reserve and Jaci’s Lodge. We scarcely had time to view our rooms before afternoon tea was served and we were off on safari. We had a very productive afternoon. We spotted elephants more than once, zebra, kudu, blue wildebeest, and impala. We were also able to see wild dogs, which Carmin told me are perhaps the most rare animal to see in South Africa. They are really pretty too. Near the Madikwe landing strip, we observed a “journey” of giraffes. While we were there, a small chartered plane arrived on the runway causing a jackal to dart into the bush.

Our goal for the afternoon was to locate lions, in which we were definitely successful. Luckily, the mother killed a zebra close to the road and had dragged it behind a nearby tree. There were four cubs lying about and playing while the mother gnawed on the carcass. The sounds were some of the strangest, most memorable I’ve ever heard. There were spine tingling cracks as the powerful teeth of the mother lion obliterated the zebra’s bones and a deep, satisfied purring. Our wildlife guide, David, informed us that the lions are lighter colored than one might expect because, though they naturally occur in this area, their ancestors are from a dessert area of Africa.

We were able to continue with the African sundowner tradition before heading back to the lodge for dinner. What an enjoyable string we’ve had of great company and wonderful meals. We had a choice of lamb or chicken tonight and baked cheesecake for dessert. As we were eating our pre-dinner salads, a thunderstorm burst through the sky to pour down onto us, forcing our meal to move under cover. The rains continue even now, as we’re safely tucked into the cozy and rustic luxury of our private hut. Tomorrow we’re heading to Kruger Park for our final few days in South Africa.

This has been another exceptional day. I awoke at 6:30 to the sound of an employee of Ant’s Nest Lodge bringing coffee into my room. That’s my kind of wakeup call! I showered quickly and headed down to breakfast where our table had been set with a variety of freshly baked croissants, cereals, fruit, yogurt, and the old fashioned English breakfast of beans on toast- delicious!

Our morning activity was a horseback safari. You can get so much closer to animals on horseback than you can in a vehicle or by simply walking. Carmin explains that this is because the animals feel like you must be less of a threat if another animal trusts you. I can only describe our horseback safari experience as magical. Ant (the owner) guided us through the property which is over 50,000 acres. We came upon a gathering of giraffe and followed them for quite some time. Ant helped us flush them out of the trees into a clearing so we could view them better. At one point, we were literally sitting in the middle of an open field with zebra to one side of us and giraffe to another. It was incredible! Not only were we seeing and experiencing these animals in their natural environment, but we were almost a part of their herd. It was great to watch the giraffes run. They’re so graceful, which is in direct opposition to what I would have thought they’d look like when running. After a few hours we spotted a herd of eland before Peter radioed Ant, telling him he’d just seen white rhinos about one kilometer from where we were. It wasn’t long before our horses were standing in front of the massive, horned animals. My goodness, they were amazing. Their horns are actually made of fibrous hair! I love the way these animals look because they’re so otherworldly – they have massive bodies and smaller feet (in comparison) plus their ears are shaped just like tulips. We were able to approach them both on our horses and on foot. Dan even dared to get in front of the rest of us to snap some photographs while Carmin and I followed Peter – one of our guides (with his Jack Russell Terrier, Josh, always at his side).

After we spent a while watching the rhinos we were whisked away by jeep to a hilltop lunch with a spectacular northerly view. Thunderheads were moving in so Ant radioed the lodge to bring a covered vehicle. Our lunch was delicious! We ate baked potatoes, pork chops and eland sausage – all cooked on a bbq (or as they say it in South Africa – a brie) over an open flame. The wind grew fierce and before long the storm had reached us, large drops of water struck as we quickly put the dishes away and headed for the lodge. What a gorgeous site it was – rain falling over the rolling green hills, the bright blue pool below erupting in a visual symphony of rainfall splashing onto the surface.

We were all free to do our own thing for the next three hours. I took the opportunity to relax in my room’s enormous tub which I filled with bath salts and bubbles. By 4 PM the rain had subsided and we all met for tea and sweet bread before heading out on our evening jeep safari. It wasn’t long before we’d spotted giraffes again. Carmin was on her mountain bike pursuing them when Ant radioed to make us aware he’d spotted rhino, so we headed out to meet him. Both Dan and Carmin hopped on bicycles this time and Dennis got some truly lovely shots of my traveling companions with those massive grey beasts.

Helen, Peter, and Ant drove us to the same area we’d been the evening before to watch the sunset and have a drink. In South Africa, a “sun downer” is a drink taken at the time the sun sets in the evening. Tonight it was made even more special because some giraffe crept from the surrounding bush toward the clearing where we were sitting. It was a lovely evening but not yet over. The air had gotten quite chill from the rain, so we wrapped ourselves in blankets or pulled on our jackets on the way back to the lodge. Upon arriving, I discovered that the fireplace inside my suite was blazing and dinner was nearly ready to be served. We all gathered outdoors with Ant and Tessa (his wife, co-owner, and decorator extraordinaire) who joined us for wine around a bonfire they’d built and a delicious dinner in a private area of the lodge. It was fantastic as we had lamb, creamy scalloped potatoes, and cheesecake, all accompanied by South African wine and delightful conversation.

Our morning tomorrow begins with a horseback ride to see sable antelope, which are bred on this property followed by brunch before we head to our next safari adventure a short (2 or so hour) drive away.

There are not words enough to describe the perfection of this afternoon. Today we traveled from our hotel in Stellenbosch to Ant’s Nest lodge in the Waterberg. We flew from Cape Town to Johannesburg and were picked up by our driver, Tefo, to continue the rest of the way in a van.

During the drive we had a very interesting conversation regarding HIV and AIDs in Africa. Growing up, what I largely remember about Africa is the AIDs problem and how terrified I was of it. I had to know whether or not it was something that also concerned Carmin, as she grew up in South Africa. She said it absolutely had been something that scared her! From our conversation I discovered that all of Africa suffers from the HIV and AIDs problem and that it was particularly prevalent along the trucking routes through the continent. Many African cultures regarded wearing a condom as emasculating for men and the idea of discussing HIV as taboo, which made the infection spread much more quickly. Tefo told us that there is a newspaper writer and a radio host that both are open about their HIV infection and encourage discourse regarding the issue. Also, it is required that you be blood tested before you get a job and every two years thereafter.

After driving for around four hours, we arrived at Ant’s Nest. Carmin has found us the most amazing place to stay. I am blown away by the rustic magnificence and tranquility of the lodge. Our hosts, lodge managers Peter and Helen, are very welcoming and engaging. As soon as we arrived we discovered that Carmin had reserved the entire place for us as it is rented on an exclusive basis. I felt like I was in a reality TV show for a moment because we were sent to look at all the different rooms – everyone had to pick one. Dan and Dennis’s rooms were chosen quickly, and Carmin told me to pick whichever room I wanted. I wound up with an amazing suite! All of the rooms here have thatched roofs that smell wonderful like sweet hay. The attention to detail in decorating is incredible. Dennis asked about the room décor and we were told that Tessa (one of the owners) decorated them in a Kenya theme as she is from there. I kept pacing from living room to bedroom to bathroom completely speechless.

Upon our arrival we’d decided to go on an excursion in the jeep to view animals. After tea and chocolate cake, we headed out and it was not long at all before we had our first sighting – a cluster of zebras. They’re so beautiful! We all thought they were posing for Dennis. I think they may be my favorite safari animal so far. We also spotted impala (much smaller than I imagined), warthog, blue wildebeest and kudu on the drive. Everyone kept having to shoosh me! It was so exciting to see these animals in their natural habitat. We are also lucky to have arrived after the first heavy rains of the season so the grass is young and bright green. Impalas have the ability to become pregnant but not give birth right away – holding their babies inside themselves until conditions are just right. Due to the abundance of grass after the long dry season, the impala just started giving birth, so there are tons of little ones running around! As we drove along, despite the fact that Dan taught me what to look for in animal spotting, I was busy staring far into the distance at the beautiful green, tree-covered hills and blue sky with sparse puffy white clouds when I heard Carmin telling us there was something on our left. Three incredibly tall giraffe heads extended over the trees and bushes where they had been eating. I felt so oblivious for not even noticing them at first. They were so remarkable! There were two females (“cows”) and one male (a “bull”). We hopped out of the jeep at Peter’s suggestion and tried to get a little closer. It wasn’t long before they ran away at full speed but even that was a lovely sight.

The sun was getting low in the sky, and as we rounded a bend and came into a clearing, I noticed lawn chairs set up for all of us, including a table with drinks and snacks. We were able to watch the sunset and relax with a gin and tonic. Carmin said Gin and tonics are the quintessential old-time African drink because the gin contains quinine which drives mosquitoes away.

Dinner this evening was served outside at the lodge. The star filled sky, unpolluted by city lights, was our backdrop. Midway through dinner our hosts heard snorting from beyond the courtyard. Four white rhinos had wandered over and were pulling up the grass to eat. It was so unreal! We were so close to them we could clearly see their heavily textured skin and big, jutting horns! Dinner was absolutely delicious as well – stuffed peppers as an appetizer, beef fillet with chunky fried potatoes and sweet beans as the main course, and a chocolate torte with ice cream and raspberry sauce. Everything was complemented by a cabernet sauvignon/shiraz blend from the Stellenbosch wine region we’d visited the day before. I am so looking forward to another day at the Ant’s Nest. Tomorrow morning we’re heading out on horseback to see more animals!

What is better to round out a day than penguins and cheetahs? Today we had a close encounter with South African wildlife and nature. This morning we were up at 5 AM to gather all of our things and check out of the hotel. By 6 AM we were once again hurrying toward Simon’s Town. Yesterday we were planning to kayak but the winds were just too high so our kayaking guide, Derek, agreed to meet us at 7 AM near Boulders Beach. As soon as we pulled in we saw him waiting for us with kayaks at the ready. Carmin and Doug paired up as did Dan and I. I had never ocean kayaked before (outside of the ultra calm biobay in Puerto Rico) so this was definitely a fun workout. The area was so beautiful and appropriately named as smooth gray boulders lined the beach and jutted from the water. The best part, however, was that we got to see a colony of penguins from the water! After we kayaked we got out of the water and walked over for a closer view. They were so adorable and fun to watch. We also saw hyrax, which are furry animals that look like gigantic gerbils and they’re genetically closest to elephants of all animals.

We headed to the wine region known as Stellenbosch (meaning Stel’s Bush, named after Simon Van der Stel) for lunch where there are over 300 wineries. After a short bike ride we dined at Lapa Restaurant on the Knorhoek wine estate. Beautiful oak trees rose above our tables and we were surrounded by African architecture with thatched roofs and exposed beams. The countryside here is probably some of the most spectacular I’ve ever seen. Giant mountains rise in the distance and lush, green rolling vineyards stretch out to meet towering oaks as far as the eye can see. We stopped by Neil Ellis winery for a tasting. Carmin’s favorite was the Elgin Chardonnay. Personally, I couldn’t get past the breathtaking scenery. As much as I love the wine trails in Texas and New York, nothing I have seen even comes close to this splendor.

After our tasting, Carmin surprised us by taking us to pet cheetahs! The organization responsible for the program is Cheetah Outreach. Their mission is to help the endangered cheetah population by informing the public and collecting funds to support breeding and protection efforts. For instance, farmers often see cheetahs as pests and shoot them. Cheetah Outreach breeds South African Anatolian Shepherd dogs as guard dogs (as they just bark and growl to scare the cheetahs away) and gives them to farmers along with vet care and food for a year completely free. They really are beautiful animals and when we pet them they purred just like big cats.

We had a couple of hours of down time after our cheetah encounter and I took the opportunity to shower, read, and rest. Dinner tonight was at Moyo. It was fabulous. The restaurant is unlike anything I’ve experienced. First of all, it is completely outdoors save for some areas which are covered by canvas canopies or tents. There are exotic game dishes of all kinds as well as veal, seafood, and chicken served buffet style. The atmosphere is so lively! Roving musicians, drummers, story tellers, and face painters visit all the different tables – some of which are ground level and others which are built high in the air on large platforms like a sort of tree house. The music and clothing were very tribal and represented all of Africa, though the meals were strictly based on South African cuisine. At one point in the night after the sun had gone down and the sky was a dark navy, a trio of singers were at our table and a gentle breeze blew through the air. I closed my eyes and really felt that we were in Africa and experiencing the wonder, richness, and beauty of the culture. Tonight is our last night in the Cape Town area - we leave for safari in the morning! Here is to hoping for good animal viewing.

Your Questions Answered:

Q: Is this [the Gold of Africa Museum] the same venue that does the Mali puppet theatre that I have heard about?

A: Jan, I asked Carmin about Gold of Africa Museum being the same one as where the the Mali puppet theatre takes place and she confirmed that it is, in fact!

Q: Val! asks:
Was the flora as magnificent as I’m hoping?
How did your view of Langa change during your day there?
Did you explain to Dan about your experience with Paella?
When did you have the prawns?
What was it like to have children so excited to hold your hand?
And did they set up the craft cart just for your group?
So is the medicine man legit or more for tourists?
Why were there so many tables outside his shop?
Did they seem to get a lot of tourists/visitors?
Did you specifically see anyone with more than one wife?

A: The flora is magnificent, though the flowers are hardier with sturdier petals than you’re probably thinking. Some are thick and leaf like. The bushes are superior to look at and to touch than our small mesquite scrub brushes but the idea is somewhat similar as they are able to survive in rugged conditions. My view of Langa changed in that I understand the sense of pride the residents have in their culture and how they all care for or respect one another, seemingly regardless of wealth. They have so much love for their culture, in fact, that if they become financially stable enough to purchase a house outside the township, they will keep one in the township so they can go back there to “practice their culture,” as Jimmy said. I did explain the paella situation to everyone. Prawns have been a regular lunch/dinner item here. Speaking of the bbqed animal head, they call it a “Smilie” because the lips pull completely off the teeth when the animal’s face is charred. I loved that name! The excitement of the cihldren was really interesting and heartwarming, but even moreso, I enjoyed seeing Carmin and Dennis happily interact with them. I am not sure if the cart was set up just for us. According to Jimmy, the medicine man is indeed legit. The carts were plentiful outside the shop and they may have been for tourists, but it was also a shopping area for the community, so who can say? Not I! A lot of tourists are interested in going to the Langa township, so they probably get a good number of visitors. I didn’t see any others, however. I also didn’t see anyone with multiple wives, but I don’t think I would know what to look for in the first place.

Today was a fantastic combination of activity and sensory indulgence as we biked over hilly, challenging terrain and experienced gorgeous views and delectable local cuisine. We were up and out of Cape Cadogan Hotel at 8 AM this morning and heading towards the Cape of Good Hope – the most southwestern point on the African continent. Along the way we stopped to take a look at the grounds of Groot Constantia (Big Constantia), the oldest winery in South Africa (established 1685). The winery was begun by Simon Van der Stel, the first governor of the Cape of Good Hope, who ordered soil samples from numerous areas south of Table Mountain and, after analyzing them, settled upon the absolute best. The location is just stunning with acre upon acre of vineyards and mountains rising on all sides! On the property there are beautiful white washed buildings with thatched roofs in the Cape Dutch style. White and red rose bushes are planted at the end of each row of grapes. I found it aesthetically spectacular, but apparently it serves a purpose as well! Doug explained that grapes and roses suffer from the same types of disease, though roses show it more readily, thereby allowing winemakers to know if something is going wrong with the plants.

Once we left the vineyard, we continued toward Cape of Good Hope. We pulled off to the side of the road to look at an ostrich farm when Graham noticed a Chacma baboon sitting in a nearby tree. These baboons are unique because they will fish for mussels in the sea. Apparently they are also thieves! Carmin warned us to be careful because baboons like to steal things, especially if they think it is food, and are likely to make off with your camera if you hold it up to your face! Soon a whole group of baboons appeared, crossing the street in front of us bound for the ostrich farm.

Not long after spotting the baboons we came to the Cape of Good Hope. Standing at the edge of the continent was so cool! The ocean seemed immense and engulfing, but the aqua color of the water was incomparably beautiful. This stop was brief as our cycling guides, Peter and Margaret, were waiting for us at Cape Point. They passed out helmets to Dan, Carmin, and myself and gave us a quick lesson on how the gears worked and what our ride would be like. We peddled down the road for a while and then up a steep hill that led to a scenic lookout over False Bay. Cliffs lined a shore covered with rust colored boulders. You could see straight through the clear blue water near the shore. Peter told us that this area is seasonally occupied by whales and, as a result, whale watchers! We headed back to the main road and soon came down to the beach. That was my absolute favorite part of the ride - with the ocean sparkling before me and the wind whipping all around, I was filled with a true sense of peace.
I loved the ride through the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve, though it quickly became evident that I hadn’t really ridden in a long time. I forgot those bike seats can be so uncomfortable! I would highly recommend bringing a pair of bike shorts with you.

Following our ride, we headed to a charming seaside town called Simon’s Town, named after the aforementioned Simon Van der Stel! We ate at Bertha’s restaurant, which sits beside a harbor.

The food was very good and fresh. Dan raved about his gargantuan prawn (giant is an understatement).

We made it back to the hotel just after 5:00 PM and had a little downtime to relax and freshen up. Nothing was planned for dinner this evening, as all of our trips allow guests one dinner on their own to create their own experience. Dan and Dennis spoke with the hotel clerk who recommended a restaurant just down Kloof Street. Earlier in the day Carmin and I discussed how meat from beef and poultry has a different texture in South Africa than it does in America. I know it might be a strange thing to notice, but I resolved to try a South African steak at the next opportunity and the chance came sooner than I anticipated. At dinner I ordered a fillet and it was very good – savory, tender, and juicy but somehow softer than in The States. Carmin ordered Warthog ribs for herself and offered for us to try some. They were delicious and moist, very similar to pork ribs with a slightly different flavor.

Tomorrow we’ll be kayaking in the ocean near a penguin colony. I absolutely cannot wait. I definitely need to charge my camera battery for this excursion! Afterwards we’ll have a picnic lunch and tour (and taste) the wine region known as Stellenbosch.

We rose a little earlier this morning to have breakfast at 7 AM so we could be on our way to Table Mountain at 7:45. When we arrived, Doug was waiting with our tickets for the cable car ride up. The ride itself was amazing, as the tram rotated so riders were able to enjoy the entire landscape without having to nudge one another out of the way. We were some of the first people to be on top of the mountain this morning. The views were breathtaking in every direction.

Doug pointed out different areas that were of significance, such as Cape of Good Hope which is often believed to be where the Atlantic and Indian oceans converge. He spoke to us about the different plants on the Cape and how, though only covering 0.06% of the Earth’s surface, this region has so much unique plant life it qualifies as the smallest but richest of the 6 floral kingdoms. He was more than happy to answer any questions we had.
After taking loads of photos, Dan surprised us with a sumptuous display of sliced apples, pretzels, and candied fruit that he’d been carrying all morning in his backpack! No one had any idea this was coming but it sure was a nice surprise. After indulging a little in the food, we began our hike down the mountain along Platteklip Gorge. We encountered many friendly hikers on the way down and took in the stunning scenery. The path, which zigzagged steeply all the way to the road, was made into stairs out of rock with mesh nets of rock along the outside of the trail meant to prevent erosion. As we approached the bottom, clouds began to pour over the top of the mountain. I was so happy to witness this because Carmin described it to us the previous day and referred to it as “the tablecloth.” It really resembled one.

After our hike we had a seafood lunch near the hotel and showered for our afternoon activity. We were picked up at our hotel by Jimmy, our guide for the afternoon. He is a native of one of the townships on Cape Flats where black Africans were placed for a variety of segregationist reasons, ranging from fear of the Bubonic Plague in 1906 to apartheid. We began with a driving tour of District 6 where over 60,000 people were forced to relocate during apartheid. Sadly, a cobblestone street is all that remains from the last evacuations in the 1980s. We stop at the District 6 Museum where people are invited to reconnect with others from the area and tourists can learn about the horrible suffering the locals had to endure as well as see photographs and relics of what their lives had been like – barber shop tools, mirrors, and newspaper clippings were artfully displayed in the museum. One particularly touching story I read during our visit was of a man who’d owned 50 pigeons. He was forced to move and, once settled for several months, let his pigeons out to fly to see if they’d return to him. They didn’t return that night, which troubled him greatly. As he drove to work the next morning, passing the bulldozed lot where he used to live in District 6, he saw all 50 of his pigeons sitting there, staring at him, as if they were asking where their home had gone.

Our next stop was Langa, a township in Cape Flats that was truly vibrant with a culture all its own! Jimmy told us that the township was divided into four sections: working class, well-off (professional occupants), converted migrant hostels, and shanties. We drove through streets bustling with activity before we were able to get out and walk around amongst the people. I must admit, my head was swimming at this point and nausea rising in my stomach at the impoverished conditions some of the people appeared, at first glance, to be living in. Jimmy did an excellent job of describing the different types of people and how many of them had come to Cape Town in search of a better life. After our tour concluded, I had a more settled and understanding feeling of the place. Our first stop was a “project” or community center where local young adults learn crafts such as pottery or painting. I purchased a beautiful vase and Carmin bought a dish.

A little further inside the settlement, we came to a restaurant of sorts. Ladies sat outside of hovels burning hair off the heads of dead sheep which were then boiled and sold as food to the locals. Dan, seeing how squeamish I’d been of eating prawns whose heads, feelers and legs were still attached, thought I’d be too squeamish to try the sheep head and purchased half of it for me to try. Unfortunately for Dan, cockroach-looking seafood and good, old fashioned bbq is a very different thing to me. Carmin and I gladly tried both the cheek (meat, fat and skin together) and the tongue (which, like cow tongue, is considered a delicacy). Neither was bad, though the cheek was a little too chewy for either of us. We walked through the streets where the children held our hands and took a great interest in our cameras. Dennis had a ball with them – snapping their photos and showing them their images immediately through the display screen on back. At the corner, where Jimmy brought the car around to pick us up, a craft stand had been set up for us tourists.

Our next stop was a shanty neighborhood where two women stood behind craft booths waiting for our van. Once again, I grabbed some souvenirs. We were allowed to see the inside of her home, which was made of plywood and sheet metal and barely two rooms. It did have electricity, though, as candles or fire of any sort was extremely dangerous and had burned down 250 homes only 7 years ago. The home was very neat and clean with appliances such as an electric range and a sewing machine. Jimmy informed us that this woman sewed traditional gowns for the women, including wedding dresses. The final stop we made was at a medicine man’s place of business. It was very dark and musty inside as animal skins and feet, mushrooms, and a myriad of other things I couldn’t quite discern in the low light hung from the ceiling or decorated shelves and random areas of the room. He put on a fur hat and beaded sash and spoke about the different potions he can make to help a man find another wife (this culture allows for up to 5) or cure an ailment. Outside of his place of business were the largest number of craft and jewelry tables of all, and Dan took this opportunity to buy some gifts before we headed back to our hotel.

Dinner tonight was a cultural affair at the Gold of Africa Museum, a small museum that highlights gold work rom all over Africa. A drum workshop was underway on arrival and everyone participated in the fun, though humbling experience. That definitely takes a lot of skill! Carmin remarked that she found dinner this evening particularly special and the highlight of her day. Many small dishes from all the different regions of Africa were represented. People drummed and danced in beautiful costumes and the Xhosa singing was truly moving. It was the perfect ending to the day.