Cape Cadogan Boutique Hotel is beautiful and open, airy, and light. I can’t wait to see it during the day!
I landed in Cape Town (CPT) just after 9PM local time (SAST) – only 22 hours after beginning my journey in New York City (JFK). I had been so worried and paranoid about the flight for absolutely no reason. I couldn’t imagine spending that long on a plane, especially in coach, but I couldn’t have been more pleasantly surprised. Having never flown on South African Airways, I didn’t know what to expect. Since the majority of my time today was spent traveling, I’ll give you a rundown of what it was like just getting to South Africa.
Pre-boarding was exceptionally easy, although it has been years since I’ve traveled internationally and I wasn’t terribly familiar with the process – I didn’t remember that I had to carry my own luggage to the screening area! It was very smooth and the South African Airways employee at the counter was friendly and quick. I also didn’t have to wait in line at all to get checked in or receive my physical ticket. I was really sad to say goodbye to Justin, who’d accompanied me to the airport, but still, I was excited, and made a lot of phone calls as soon as I got on the plane.
Hour 1 (4:40 PM EST): Boarded in coach (“economy”) and was pleasantly surprised by the amount of seat pitch (recline) and that my whole row was empty except for my seat. The configuration was 2-4-2 and I had an aisle seat in the middle section. Also, every seat had its own TV screen! The safety demonstration was not done by the flight crew, but rather a cartoon played on the TVs that explained all of the emergency instructions and federal regulations. The flight attendants did point out the emergency exits. As two of my cousins are flight attendants with American Airlines, I couldn’t help wondering if they’d prefer a system like this. We were informed by the “Flight Crew Coordinator” (chief flight attendant/purser) that more passengers would be joining us in Dakar, an estimated 7 hours from then. I eyeballed the empty seats and greedily considered using them as a bed in which to nap before we got to Dakar. My mind went into a spiral of questioning: What time will it be when we land in Dakar? What is Dakar like? Why do most people travel from Dakar to South Africa? How many passengers will join us? The flight attendants came through the aisles and handed us overnight kits with comfy yellow socks, toothpaste, toothbrushes, and sleep masks. I slipped out of my heels and into the socks immediately. What a relief! I decide to read my book since we’re still waiting to take-off.
Hour 2: Neck hurts from looking down and we are still taxiing at JFK. I am really stuck in what they call the “international rush hour” this time. My heart beats harder as anxiety rises in my chest at the thought that we’re about to fly over the Atlantic Ocean to Africa! We finally become airborne at 20 past 6 PM.
Hour 3:
Drink service followed by dinner. You can have a free glass of wine or beer with dinner in coach on SAA. I decided to go for it and opted for the cabernet sauvignon which was from South Africa – Boland Kelder. It was good, as was my dinner, but the two did not go well together! The dinner was impressively diverse – chicken tikka masala with what I imagine was saffron flavored long grain rice and vegetables. There was a roll with butter, crackers and cheese, a little cucumber salad, and chocolate mousse.
Hour 4: Decided to explore my entertainment options which led me into playing a tetris-esque game set inside a volcano. My sister, Val! probably would’ve been entertained for the entire 22 hour flight with that game alone.
Hour 5: Captain informs us we’ll land in Dakar at 8 AM (SAST). I am done with Tetris-esque game and decide to read some ALA work related material then brush teeth with handy SAA kit and fall asleep.
Hour 6 – 10: Sleep
Hour 11: I wake up to flight attendants helping people gather their luggage in low light. Trash is collected. I reference the flight map on the seatback screen and note we have come 3,707 miles and are 26 minutes from landing in Dakar. We arrive in Dakar at 6:18 AM (GMT). The plane is cleaned and the flight crew changes. This is a strange experience for me. Almost like traveling on trains in Europe where you begin in one destination and seats are reserved for passengers with little slips of paper on which their names are written that will be joining at some future stop. It seems odd for an international airline. All of the people I noticed earlier with interesting, colorful clothes (robes or billowy blouses) and hats get off at Dakar. One man in a white robe carries an incredibly large boom box. The demographic on the plane is well mixed, white, black and Asian of varying ages. Almost everyone takes this stop as an opportunity to stand and stretch their legs.
Hour 12: Only one passenger joined my row and we are on our way yet again. We’re approximately 8 hours from Johannesburg now and the sun is just rising over Dakar. A flight attendant makes an announcement that they have to “spray the cabin” and as soon as the PA is over, flight attendants come through the cabin with what seems to be scented aerosol fumigators. I wonder what they’re doing and make a mental note to google it when I land! (Google tells me they were spraying pesticides to ensure no agricultural contamination occurs.) I was informed a sweep of the cabin would be made to ensure all carry-ons are accounted for, but this did not come to pass. Soon the realization hits me that it will still be twelve more hours before I arrive in Cape Town.
Hour 13: Breakfast is served and you can choose between eggs or French toast, so I go with the French toast. It’s a complete breakfast with a croissant and jelly, yogurt, mixed fruit, and orange juice. A few moments later the beverage cart comes down the aisle and offers coffee, tea, water, or other juices.
Hour 14: Sleep
Hour 15: I awaken from a strange dream about a plane landing on an urban street and fall promptly back to sleep.
Hour 16: Sleep
Hour 17: More dreams but I am finding it more difficult to sleep because I am starting to feel pain in my knee, hip, and rear end! It is not too bad though. Lunch comes soon enough and the choice was between fish and beef this time. I chose fish and it was again a full meal with salad, bread and dessert. Custom forms are passed around.
Hour 18: Read
Hour 19: Deplane in Johannesburg (JNB) at 5:30 PM (SAST).
Hour 20: It was a very long walk, maybe a mile, from the jet-bridge to the baggage claim and customs. I got my passport stamped and stickered. Right outside of customs I was met by two men that Carmin arranged to help expedite my passage to the domestic terminal and help me check in. They sure did! One had actually been waiting for Dan and Dennis but somehow missed them. They were very nice guys! I had to stop briefly in the restroom and made it to the gate for my Cape Town flight as it was boarding. Talk about perfect timing! The flight attendants for SAA are super professional with a Swiss-like precision to them, yet with a softer, friendlier edge.
Hour 21: I was seated in an emergency exit row, so my backpack and purse both had to go in an overheard bin. The flight attendant was very helpful in storing my bags for me.
Hour 22: I finished the book I brought to read. Luckily, I had a second to start. Supper is also served, this time the choice is fish or beef again, so I go with beef. I am still glad they are giving us meals, but traveling and airline food is wearing on me. I feel bloated, gassy, and in need of proper rest. All of my discomfort is abolished when I have a brief chat with the lead flight attendant. He asks me where in The States I am from and that my accent gave it away. Being an American without much of any accent, I find this very charming and am proud to announce I am from Texas but reside in New York. He tells me that he loves New York and begins listing off cities in Texas, asking if I am from them (Dallas, Houston, Austin). I am from San Antonio, in case you’re curious. I feel a little embarrassed that I know virtually nothing about Africa (South Africa or otherwise) or its cities. I wonder with all openness whether I’ll fall in love with this place and want to stay. I am easily drawn to things, like a moth to the flame.
We departed the plane via air-stairs at Cape Town’s airport, but the stairs were enclosed in a sort of dark tunnel! The wind outside was blowing fiercely and we cram into a shuttle to get to the terminal. Carmin met
me at the airport. Her hair is longer than in her photos but her smile is just as nice and her eyes the same green! It’s so nice to see and speak with her in person. We get in a van and I meet the men that will be driving us around Cape Town tomorrow and explaining the history of the city and its people. It is late (2 AM here!) and I seem to have forgotten their names, but I’ll definitely have them for tomorrow’s update.
This evening the city was a dark, hilly landscape with glittering lights accentuating its undulating curves – just a tease really. I am looking forward to the morning and a true sense of this place. The hotel is made of several buildings (a master guesthouse and nearby apartments) which are strung together through narrow cobbled passages with gates.

I want to draw comparisons, because that is what the human mind is used to doing, for comfort and familiarity, but it seems too early and unfair to this new city, this new country. I will say, however, it feels a bit like Puerto Rico with the wind and beautiful flowering scents, and a bit like Venice, with the narrow passages and uneven walkways, but there is something else about it completely unique and unlike any place I’ve ever been.
Tomorrow is a city-orientation day with the afternoon opened. The plan is to see how the jetlag affects us. We’ll be dining at a seafood/sushi restaurant called Cod Father on the waterfront tomorrow afternoon. I love the name. I will write more tomorrow!